When I first slipped on a pair of German Army Trainers (GATs), I wasn’t just stepping into any sneaker—I was walking into a piece of history shaped by brothers whose feud birthed two major brands, fueled by World War II, sharpened during the Cold War, and glamorized by a Belgian fashion designer decades later. Originally crafted for the German Army, these trainers were meant for comfort and function, but today their design stands as one of the most iconic in the world of footwear. The origins of GATs are filled with mystery, scandal, and misunderstanding, yet their evolution into a timeless style makes them the go-to sneakers for those who crave unique, neutral-colored, and effortlessly stylish options. As someone who appreciates a tried-and-tested pair that can complement any outfit, I can confidently say these GATs are the coolest and most comfortable sneakers you’ll wear year-round, blending American Olympian grit with European finesse—without breaking the bank, making them well worth your money.
What Makes German Army Trainers Iconic Footwear?
The story of German Army Trainers starts in 1936, in Berlin, Germany, during the historic Berlin Olympics. The world was watching with anticipation as the event unfolded in a politically charged atmosphere. It was there that Jesse Owens, an African-American track and field star, stunned the crowd and defeated top German competitors, claiming gold medals in events like the long jump (where he reached 8.06 meters) and the relay team. What many don’t know is that his success was partly due to a special pair of athletic shoes — handcrafted by Rudolf Dassler and Adolph Dassler, two innovative brothers from Herzogenaurach, who co-founded the Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik or Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory. These shoes, featuring leather strips, black spikes, and fine engineering by Adolf (a skilled shoemaking engineer), were Owens’ secret weapon. The moment symbolized not just athletic victory, but the birth of a legacy in athletic footwear — one that would echo through factories, American troops, and even international success.
By 1948, however, differences of opinion drove a wedge between the Dassler brothers, causing a falling-out. Rudolf went on to create Ruda, which later became Puma, while Adi founded the now-iconic Adidas. This split sparked a fierce rivalry — two companies with unmatched talent, drive, and vision, becoming lifelong rivals and even inspiring the film Adidas vs. Puma: The Name of the Game. Their competition gave rise to the brilliance behind Germany’s two biggest names in sportswear.
By the 1970s, both Adidas and Puma were thriving, growing into powerful, enduring brands and pillars of athletic gear. Around this time, the West German Army commissioned a sleek, durable training shoe for its troops. Contrary to popular belief, neither company clearly owned the brand behind the first GATs, officially known as bundeswehr sportschuhe, or Federal Defense Sports Shoe. These shoes were used by nearly half a million men and women in training during the Cold War, and some say they were first manufactured by Puma, though records from the Bundeswehr Museum of Military History still leave room for debate. After the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, the German Army Trainer became more than military gear — it became a symbol.
Interestingly, the original GAT design still strongly resembles those spiked shoes Adolf Dassler made for Jesse Owens — a design that, to this day, neither brand can fully claim, but which shaped the face of sports history.
Beckett Simonon and Modern Alternatives
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Stylish Alternatives to Margiela GATs Without the Luxury Price Tag
If you’re looking for GATs that offer the same iconic style without the luxury tax, consider Beckett Simonon, a brand known for its high-quality construction and sleek colorways. I’ve personally worn their shoes, and they’re incredibly comfortable and stylish—a smart investment if you care about both design and durability. Each version is made-to-order, meaning once your online submission is placed, you’ll experience brief wait periods, but this helps reduce waste and ensures better quality control. The company focuses on using fine materials and employs skilled artisans to ensure every pair is physically and carefully constructed. Thanks to their competitive pricing, these products easily rival high-end designer GATs, all while being accessible to those who value craftsmanship without the markup. You can even spot their pieces featured on platforms like Unsplash, showcasing the minimal yet premium appeal of their designs.
The Legacy of the Dassler Brothers in Shaping GATs
The Dassler brothers, Adi and Rudolph, are known to have crafted the original GAT shoes, giving rise to what would become a timeless design with a sleek, iconic silhouette. The company they built together is at the center of an ongoing debate, as both companies, Adidas and Puma, are reportedly tied to the first model of GATs, and each deserves credit for their influence. After the Cold War ended, the brothers split up and started their own shoe companies, which later produced their own variations of the famous sneakers. These versions were considered the quintessential styles, but the original models are no longer available through general retail. Years later, the story of their ownership and rivalry still echoes in the world of fashion, where GATs remain one of the most iconic and original styles ever made.
What Makes German Army Trainers So Special?
The German Army Trainer, or GAT, is a timeless sneaker style that first appeared in the 1970s, made famous by brands like Adidas and Puma, who likely crafted the original model over 50 years ago under a government contract for the West German Army. Designed as training shoes for soldiers during the Cold War, these were later sold by ex-soldiers through surplus shops, making their way into the market. Their minimalist shape, leather upper, and gum sole with suede detailing gave them a distinctive look that was soon copied, modified, and remixed by designers like Martin Margiela. His fashion house, Maison Margiela, turned the GAT into the iconic Replica, blending traditional elements like a white leather toe box, suede overlay, grey suede side panel, suede patch on the heel, and suede eyestays, with new colorways and an extra panel in the same color across the upper. Today, these styles live on as modern GATs, with classics like the BW Sport still found on eBay, celebrated for their recognizable silhouette, leather sneakers appeal, and military-meets-fashion crossover.
BW Sport: The Original GAT Sneakers
BW Sport, also known as the original German Army Trainer, was first produced by either adidas or Puma, though there’s still some debate over which brand made the true BW Sport. This iconic sneaker style, short for bundeswehr sportschuhe (which means federal defence sports shoe in German), can still be found today through secondhand shops like eBay and Grailed. Many purists prefer to hunt for an authentic pair in the right size and condition, usually running between $40 and $100 plus shipping, depending on your budget and what makes the most sense to spend. In my experience, the Original BW Sport Sneakers are the best iteration if you’re looking to experience the real style and comfort of this timeless sneaker.
Maison Margiela’s Replica GATs: A High-End Reinterpretation of a Cult Classic
Maison Margiela brought a fresh twist to the original BW Sport design with its Replica Sneakers, giving the classic GAT a high end label feel that’s been loved by men’s fashion enthusiasts since 1998. For over 20 years, the MM GAT has had a quiet cult following in niche communities like Reddit’s r/malefashionadvice, where its minimalist, white leather sneaker aesthetic—rivaling icons like Adidas Stan Smith and Common Projects Achilles—has never gone out of style. Created by Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela, the Maison Margiela version stays true to the first colorway with white, grey, and gum tones but adds more suede detailing, especially on the heel, eyestay, and side panel—the biggest difference from its utilitarian predecessors. Despite being a runway-worthy, upscale reinterpretation by a namesake label, these sneakers are still well built, made from luxurious materials, and meant to be worn hard—not babied—because they’re built to last, take a beating, and look better with age, just like good vintage pieces do.
A Detailed Guide to German Army Trainers (GATs)
In 1936, something remarkable happened in Berlin, Germany. The Berlin Olympics drew world attention, not only for sport but for its politically charged atmosphere. As an American growing up hearing about the incredible story of Jesse Owens, I was fascinated by how this African-American athlete defeated German competitors on their home turf. Owens became a symbol of strength when he won four gold medals in track and field events, including the long jump competition, where he jumped 8.06 meters to beat Hitler’s favorite, Lutz Long. What many don’t know is that the shoes on his feet were a gift from Adolf Dassler, a shoemaking engineer and co-founder of Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik (or Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory) in Herzogenaurach. The shoes had leather strips and black spikes, and they helped launch Dassler’s legacy with elite athletes around the world.
After the American troops left Germany post-war, the factory faced huge changes. Orders started rolling in and Dassler’s athletic footwear gained international success. But by 1948, the innovative brothers, Rudolf and Adolph Dassler, had a final falling-out. Due to growing differences of opinion, they split the company. Adi created Adidas, while Rudolf formed Ruda, which later became Puma. Their talent, skill, and vision turned them into fierce competitors, making Adidas vs. Puma one of the greatest rivalries in sportswear history—so famous that it even inspired the movie, The Name of the Game.
Jump to the 1970s, and both Adidas and Puma were thriving. They had become enduring pillars in athletic gear worldwide. Around this time, the West German Army needed a solid training shoe for its growing force of nearly half million men and women. Against popular belief, these were not fashion items—they were shoes designed and manufactured specifically for military use. This model, later called GATs, was officially known as bundeswehr sportschuhe, or Federal Defense Sports Shoe. Despite debates over brand ownership, both companies produced them during the Cold War era, with some of the best examples still preserved at the Bundeswehr Museum of Military History. Official records show involvement from Puma, further cementing the German Army Trainer in military and fashion lore until the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989.
In any case, the original GAT holds its place in history. From spiked shoes worn by Jesse Owens, crafted by Adolf Dassler, to the clean and sturdy design adopted by military troops, the legacy of GATs is built on purpose and performance. Whether it’s the brand or the design, whoever truly owns the name, the impact of these shoes continues to be felt today.
Defining Characteristics of the GAT
When you look at a pair of German Army Trainers, it’s easy to see why they’ve become more thanfashion, but function—with comfort, support, longevity, and economy being the most paramount considerations. The iconic style includes gum rubber soles, a sleek silhouette, and supple leather with leather overlaying the upper, often in tones of grey and off white, and finished with suede detailing around the toe-box.
From a design perspective, the shoe features a slender, aerodynamic body, defined by stripes, a minimal design, and the absence of loud branding. The original GAT often had a unique pattern on the sole—composed of grids and circles—that not only added grip but also made the trainers easily distinguished from typical sneakers. What once began as gear for the German Army made a seamless transition into a fashion icon, without losing its roots in practical, thoughtful design. just functional footwear. Even though there are now hundreds of variations, every pair can be traced back to the original design that the German Army issued to its soldiers. What made them special wasn’t
From Military Gear to Fashion Icon: The Rise of GATs
The GATs, once simple military gear, quietly stepped into the world of fashion after the Cold War, when the Western German Army was scaled down and decommissioned soldiers sold off thousands of pairs for cash. These shoes, once part of military garb, ended up in surplus stores and quickly became a collector’s item among civilians with a love for classic styles and vintage looks. In the 1990s, a Belgian designer saw the iconic styles and unique silhouette of these sneakers and had a brilliant idea: take these refurbished, cleaned, and repaired shoes, sometimes with laces replaced, tongue reworked, and numeric branding embossed, and showcase them in haute couture. His Spring/Summer 1999 runway debut for the Belgian brand turned GATs into a fashion staple. Now, you can find Replicas, like Beckett Simonon or Morgen Trainers, sold at astronomic prices, tracing their backstory to BW Sport shoes, and standing proudly in wardrobes beside bomber jackets, combat boots, chukka boots, twill chinos, and camouflage—a foundation of civilian style with an almost obsessive, loyal following for decades.
FAQs
Who Really Created the Original German Army Trainer?
The history of the German Army Trainer is confusing, with credible sources naming both Puma and Adidas as the original creator of the GAT. But the popular consensus is that the brand Adidas first produced the shoe for the Bundeswehr, the Federal Republic’s army, in the 1980s.
What GAT Really Means in Sneakers
GAT stands for German Army Trainer, a type of sneakers with a history that stretches far further back than fashion. Now well known and iconic, especially for Margiela’s adaptation, they were first made for military use.
Best Brands to Snag Iconic GATs
For a top pair of GATs, I’d snag the Oliver Cabell or Beckett Simonon versions—these brands use great materials, offer sleek colorways, and retain that iconic style with true quality.
Easy Way to Keep Your German Army Trainers Clean
To clean your German Army trainers, use a soft brush on the upper and midsole, then apply a cleaning solution with a microfiber towel. Do this often to keep the leather in good condition and your kicks fresh-smelling every time.
Origin of the First Training Shoes
The British company JW Foster & Sons produced the first handmade running shoes in 1895 for leisure, exercise, and activities that were gaining momentum. These products were sold to athletes around the world, and they were later awarded a contract to make shoes for the 1924 British Summer Olympics team, boosting the enjoyment of sports.
Was the German Army Fully Motorized?
During World War II, the German Heer was seen as a modern military power, yet only 20 percent of its force was truly motorized. Despite being partly mechanized, most troops relied on non-vehicle transport, limiting mobility, deployment, and combat effectiveness. This mix of old and new technology shaped the logistics, strategy, and operations of one of history’s most complex armies on the battlefield.
